LEADER 03859cam a2200517 i 4500001 99102301333506421 005 20240502065337.0 008 170502t20172017oncaf b 001 0 eng d 010 2017394068 016 20169082512 020 9781487501600 |q(cloth) 020 1487501609 035 (NjP)10230133-princetondb 035 |z(NjP)Voyager10230133 035 (OCoLC)ocn961007569 037 176967 040 YDX |beng |erda |cYDX |dDLC |dBDX |dNLC |dNGA |dGSU |dUVV |dBNG |dOCLCO |dNjP 042 lccopycat 043 e-sp--- 050 00 DP104 |b.I75 2017 082 04 946/.02 |223 100 1 Irigoyen-García, Javier, |d1975- |eauthor. |0http://id.loc.gov/authorities/names/no2014032922 245 10 "Moors dressed as Moors" : |bclothing, social distinction, and ethnicity in early modern Iberia / |cJavier Irigoyen-García. 264 1 Toronto : |bUniversity of Toronto Press, |c[2017] 264 4 |c©2017 300 xi, 324 pages, 17 unnumbered pages of plates : |billustrations ; |c24 cm. 336 text |btxt |2rdacontent 337 unmediated |bn |2rdamedia 338 volume |bnc |2rdacarrier 490 1 Toronto Iberic ; |v26 504 Includes bibliographical references (pages 257-303) and index. 505 0 Part one: "Morisma nueva de Christianos": Iberian Christian Moorish clothing -- Moors at court -- Moorish clothing and nobility -- Unlawful Moorishness -- Lope's Moors: self-fashioning and resentment -- Part two: Moorishness in the eye of the beholder: Moriscos as dressed bodies -- Policing Moriscos in sixteenth-century Granada -- Searching for the Iberian Moorish Morisco -- Moriscos performing as Moors -- Moriscos as theatrical bodies -- Conclusions. 520 "In early modern Iberia, Moorish clothing was not merely a cultural remnant from the Islamic period, but an artefact that conditioned discourses of nobility and social preeminence. In Moors Dressed as Moors, Javier Irigoyen-Garcia draws on a wide range of sources: archival, legal, literary, and visual documents, as well as tailoring books, equestrian treatises, and festival books to reveal the currency of Moorish clothing in early modern Iberian society. Irigoyen-García's insightful and nuanced analyses of Moorish clothing production and circulation shows that as well as being a sign of status and a marker of nobility, it also served to codify social tensions by deploying apparent Islamophobic discourses. Such luxurious value of clothing also sheds light on how sartorial legislation against the Moriscos was not only a form of cultural repression, but also a way to preclude their full integration into Iberian society. Moors Dressed as Moors challenges the traditional interpretations of the value of Moorish clothing in sixteenth and seventeenth-century Spain and how it articulated the relationships between Christians and Moriscos."-- |cProvided by publisher. 650 0 Moriscos |xClothing |zIberian Peninsula |xHistory |y16th century. 650 0 Moriscos |xClothing |zIberian Peninsula |xHistory |y17th century. 650 0 Moriscos |zIberian Peninsula |xEthnic identity |xHistory |y16th century. 650 0 Moriscos |zIberian Peninsula |xEthnic identity |xHistory |y17th century. 650 0 Clothing and dress |zSpain. |0http://id.loc.gov/authorities/subjects/sh2009120454 651 0 Iberian Peninsula |xEthnic relations |xHistory |y16th century. 651 0 Iberian Peninsula |xEthnic relations |xHistory |y17th century. 651 0 Iberian Peninsula |xSocial life and customs |y16th century. 651 0 Iberian Peninsula |xSocial life and customs |y17th century. 830 0 Toronto Iberic ; |v26. 902 st23 |bl |6a |7m |dv |f1 |e20170608 904 jar |ba |hm |cb |e20170530 914 (OCoLC)ocn961007569 |bOCoLC |cmatch |d20240501 |eprocessed |f961007569